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We've tried a lot of Lithium batteries over the last few years and dropped them like hot exhausts. Problem after problem and more come backs than Status Quo! Then we got a all from Colm at Racing Batteries. First thing he did was educate me on how the batteries are made. This helped me to understand why so many other companies are getting it wrong. Next and more importantly he educated me on use and care. You have to treat them like an expensive girlfriend. Look after them and above all never let them get run down or they will fail.
Here's some basic ned to knows:
Lithium Batteries need looking after in a different way to lead acid batteries; most problems our customers encounter are because they haven't quite realised this.
Spending 10 minutes understanding the following information will help to prevent any problems, and ensure that you get the best performance and years of service from your Racing Battery.
- A LiGuard voltage/condition monitor will alert you if your battery is in need of charging.
- The batteries will come out fully charged - don't put it on a charger when you get it.
- The battery should be disconnected from the vehicle when not in use (you can also disconnect one lead, or fit a battery master switch/isolator). Don't assume that your ignition switch isolates the battery - it often doesn't.
- If the battery is left connected to the vehicle, it should be charged periodically when not in use with an optimate type charger - it's not necessary to leave it permanently plugged in to your charger (in fact it's best not to unless it you're sure that it has an automatic zero current maintenance mode like the Optimate Lithium - our recommended charger), but make sure you don't get down below 8V. If you use a normal lead acid battery charger, make sure you disconnect it as soon as the battery is charged.
- If you use a normal lead acid battery charger, make sure you don't exceed the max charge rate specified for your battery.
- Don't ever allow the battery to become completely discharged (eg through leaving the lights/ignition on or allowing an alarm or a leakage in the loom to drain all the charge. The ECU can also draw current with the vehicle switched off, as can the clock on the dash). A LiGuard voltage/condition monitor will alert you if your battery is in need of charging.
- Racing Batteries are best used in 3 or 4 second bursts rather than long periods of continuous cranking.
- And don't crank the engine on a part charged battery - make sure it's charged up to operating voltage (13.4 - 14.4V) first.
- When you mount your battery, dont mount it directly to the frame or engine - a bit of vibration isolation is a good idea.
- More usage and care information is available in our Application Notes section.
Throughout January we are offering free shipping on all Racing Batteries.
To buy your battery see our website http://www.ukracesupport.co.uk/Racing%20Batt.htm - http://www.ukracesupport.co.uk/Racing%20Batt.htm for fitment guide and for free shipping use code battery on checkout.
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 http://www.ukracesupport.co.uk - http://www.ukracesupport.co.uk
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